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Whenever assembling a roll of London’s best eateries, one might foresee renowned high-end names. Yet, nestled prominently among these food giants is a unpretentious salonu found in a outlying corner of northern London.

An Unexpected Accolade

The small Turkish eatery, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the fourth best restaurant in the metropolis by a respected gastronomic guide. The accolade has left the family totally astonished.

“I’m totally shocked,” says the family member, referring to his parents’ hard graft that led to their modest place achieving such a prominent spot on a notable 99-strong list.

A Character of Simplicity

This little venue, which used to be a basic cafe before its transformation into a buzzing spot, has kept much of its original feel. It fits just over 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking display, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy place,” notes the owner.

A Star Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all down to the food, and this eatery more than succeeds. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a moist, juicy consistency.

The meat is then added into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in gradually. When the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to soak in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is wrapped neatly inside.

The wrap is typically enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a mighty slap of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The leading food critic called this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For dessert, the eatery’s künefe proves a delight. It is soaked in less syrup than is typical, imparting it a more intense, toastier and less sickly taste.

Outranking the Titans

Remarkably, this modest spot has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant full for less than £25, comparable meals at luxury establishments can run into significantly more than that price.

The Ethos of Hospitality

It is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. It is belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I do not believe in that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is most important is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The view is supported by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he was in a position of authority, he would “require to make every chef in London visit this spot as a masterclass, to teach them the traps of excess, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Story of Dedication

In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food did not work at fancy restaurants. “I am really pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to become successful, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum would be extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would come here to help her. She had children and a house to manage as well. Each of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

A Accomplishment for the Culture

This restaurant’s success is set to resonate beyond its own walls. “I believe many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the broader meaning of this gastronomic achievement.